How to fit your bit & bridle
After sharing ‘A beginner’s guide to bit mechanics’, several people reached out to me asking for input on the overall fit of their bridles. Although properly fitting your bridle to your horse is nearly as important as the fit of its saddle, it’s not discussed nearly as much. So, lets get into it!
*I highly recommend reading at least the beginning of ‘A beginner’s guide to bit mechanics’ to ensure your understanding of the terminology that will be used for the bits
*While these photos are mostly of English bridles, the same is applied to western fitting
TERMINOLOGY & FUNCTION
The leather straps that go onto a horses head is called a headstall. The reins connect to the bit, and the bit connects to the headstall. These 3 pieces come together and form a bridle.
Red: Crownpiece/Headpiece = Holds everything together
Orange: Throatlatch = Prevents headstall from slipping/being rubbed off
Yellow: Cheekpiece = Connects bit to headstall
Green: Noseband = Prevents excessive evasion of cues
Blue: Bit Loop/Hole = Connects the bit’s cheekpieces to the bridle’s cheekpiece
Purple: Browband = Prevents headstall from slipping down the neck
CROWNPIECES
The crownpiece is the pillar to any bridle. Since it lays over the poll, we have to be mindful when picking out a crownpiece for our horse. Materials such as lariat rope, metal, or thin cord will be incredibly abrasive, so it’s important to stick to smooth materials like leather and braided rawhide. Some horses will be content with flat leather crownpieces, while others with more sensitive, prominent polls will require crownpieces with adequate padding. However, too much padding can create concentrated pressure, so it’s important that you examine the anatomy of your horse before picking out a crownpiece.
THROATLATCHES
Typically connected to the crownpiece, the throatlatch prevents the horse from being able to rub their bridle off while also eliminating the risk of the bridle accidentally coming off when the horse shakes its head. When checking the fit of your throatlatch, try lifting your bridle as if you’re attempting to unbridle your horse. If you’re able to lift the bridle enough to get past the stiffer cartilage of the ear, you need to tighten your throatlatch. Place your finger between your horse and the center of your throatlatch, if the leather feels snug when you bend your horse’s head downward, you need to loosen your throatlatch.
CHEEKPIECES
Correctly selecting the length of the cheekpiece is one of the most important parts of bridle fitting. If your cheekpiece is too long, the buckle connecting the cheekpiece and crownpiece will lay on the TMJ and/or the surrounding nerves, causing your horse discomfort through varying levels of headaches when bridles. If your cheekpiece is too short, the same buckles will rub the cheekbone. A well-fitted cheekpiece will rest below the center of the eye while laying flat on the cheek.
NOSEBANDS
There are dozens and dozens of styles of nosebands, but they all follow the same general guide on areas to avoid. If you feel along your horse’s muzzle, you will feel the nasal bone become narrower the closer you get to the nostrils. If you press the base of the nasal bone, the horse understands the pressure and backs away. However, if you press on the lower, narrower parts of the nasal bone, the horse goes from backing away because it is understanding your cue to backing away because it is uncomfortable. A well-fitted noseband will not cause discomfort and will sit at the base of the nasal bone, right before or on the exact area where the nasal bone splits from the skull. Unfortunately it’s become quite common for riders to crank their nosebands so tight that their horse cannot lick and chew or even breathe comfortably. It’s important to remember that nosebands are for preventing the excessive evasion of pressure, not for eliminating the horse’s ability to communicate it’s discomfort
There are 3 main styles of nosebands:
The Caveson Noseband
Arguably the most common choice, a caveson is the most minimalistic of nosebands. They will only prevent excessive gaping, making it easier for greener owners to assess the horse’s understanding and acceptance of the bit mid-ride.
The Figure-8/Grackle Noseband
A figure-8 noseband has an additional strap that is buckled below the bit. This further decreases the horse’s ability to evade pressure in its mouth. The pressure is distributed across the upper base of the nasal bone, the underside of the cheek, and the chin groove. While figure-8 nosebands are easier to misuse than a simple caveson, a properly adjusted figure-8 noseband will not interfere with a horse that is trying to communicate an issues with you and will only prevent gaping.
The Crank Caveson Noseband
Pay attention to how the noseband would buckle into place around the muzzle. Unlike the common caveson, a crank caveson operates is fastened to the girth/cinch of a saddle. This is simply another available option and distributes the pressure across the muzzle like a typical caveson, however, it could be misused to overtighten the noseband a lot easier than a common caveson. Just like the other options, it needs to be adjusted to prevent only the excessive evasion of pressure.
The Flash
Some caveson nosebands will have come with either a permanent or removable flash. A flash serves the same purpose as a figure-8 noseband, and can be a better fit for horses with different head shapes.
BIT LOOPS/HOLES
Bit loops can either be made of leather, or quick-changing clasps. Some horses are tolerant of clasps, while some are more sensitive and will respond to metal clasps + metal cheekpieces similarly to how humans respond to utensils scratching a plate. The metal on metal can create a scratchy feeling, which is why quick-change buckles can be a better option for some horses!
BROWBANDS
Browbands prevent the bridle from sliding backward on the neck. With western bridles, riders also have the option of one or two ear loops on their headstall instead of using a browband. A browband has to be long enough to prevent the crownpiece being pulled into the base of the ears, and short enough to not flap around when the horse is in motion. There are also different styles of browbands, some straight, some curved, all made with the intention of accommodating different anatomies.
ARE “ANATOMICAL/ERGONOMIC BRIDLES” BETTER THAN “REGULAR” BRIDLES?
The short answer is that there is no such thing as an “anatomical” or “ergonomic” bridle. The word ‘anatomical’ simply refers to bodily structure or the study of anatomy while the word ‘ergonomic’ refers to comfort in a working environment. Since horses have varying head shapes, measurements, etc., different parts are required to ensure that your horse’s bridle is fitted correctly. Consequently, the term “anatomical/ergonomic bridle” is more of a marketing tactic than anything. Depending on the shape of the head, some horses will be better suited for completely straight, unpadded headstall while others will require a headstall with significant padded.
KEY FEATURES FOR A PROPERLY FITTED BIT
While I encourage you to look at my previous article '‘A beginner’s guide to bit mechanics,’ it’s important to remember that understanding bit mechanics isn’t the only part to fitting your horse to a bit. An odd trick that I find very useful is putting a sock filled with cotton on your palm, and placing a bit onto the sock. This visual will give you a better idea of how the bit will rest over a tongue without investing in a horse skull or skull replica, which is one of the many parts of bit fitting When picking a bit, you need to make sure that the cannons are curved appropriately to accommodate the tongue. Here is a refresher from A beginner’s guide to bit mechanics,’ on what issues will arise in different types of mouthpieces that aren’t curved appropriately:
Mullen: the outer half of the mouthpiece will press the roof of the mouth and the corners of the lips upward when one rein is engaged, which confuses the horse.
Single-Joint: the mouthpiece will form a ‘V’ and constantly press on the sides of the tongue and the roof of the mouth. This is also referred to as a ‘nutcracker.’
Double-Joint: the joints of the mouthpiece end up digging into the sides of the tongue.
Multi-Joint (chain, waterford, etc.): It is not possible to properly fit a horse to a multi-jointed mouthpiece due to their inhumane mechanics.
WHAT IS A “COMFORT MOUTH”
“Comfort mouth” refers to mouthpieces that are designed to stick out past the corners of the mouth and curve backward. This feature provides relieve for the bars, making a better option for many horses. In addition to the bar relief, the banana shape of comfort mouths allows the bit to slide in the mouth as an additional presignal before making full contact with the mouth. Below is an example of a barrel swivel with a comfort mouth (left), and another mouthpiece with curved cannons to accommodate the tongue (right). Side-by-side, it’s much easier to see their differences. When purchasing a bit with a comfort mouthpiece, it’s important to buy a bit that is .25-.5 incher wider than the width you would choose for a non-comfort mouth.
EXAMPLES OF IMPERFECT FIT
Below are examples of imperfectly fitting bridles, what makes them an imperfect fit, and how to fix them! I highly recommend looking at the areas of tension on each horses face, and comparing them to the horses in the ‘perfect fit’ section.
Imperfect Example #1
The ear slot is a bit small, which causes the crownpiece to sit too close to the ears and holds the cheekpiece buckle too close to the eye. There is no curb strap on this bit, which causes the bit to function as a pseudo-gag.
To fix this issues, this bridle would need a longer earpiece, a shorter cheekpiece to prevent the cheekpiece buckle from coming close to the eye, and a curb strap places on the purchase
Photo Credit: Shelby James
Imperfect Example #2
There are no earpieces, so while there is a risk of the headstall slipping down the neck or off the head, the crownpiece is able to rest completely behind the base of the ears.However, the cheekpiece buckles are resting right next to the TMJ, meaning that they are resting directly on its surrounding nerves, which will cause headaches to the horse. Finally, the curb strap is on the snaffle ring of the argentine shank, meaning it’s unable to prevent overrotation, causing the bit to function as a pseudo-gag. Moving the curb strap from the snaffle ring and onto the purchase will fix this issue.
Photo Credit: Shelby James
Imperfect Example #3
While the cheekpiece buckles are low enough to not be as problematic, the browband is noticeably too large and the noseband is adjusted concerningly below the base of the nasal bone. A caveson or a figure-8 noseband would be a better option for this horse, followed by a shorter browband
Photo Credit: Lisa Holloway
Imperfect Example #4
While almost everything about this bridle is a correct fit, the edge of the decorative concho on the ear slot rests directly above the TMJ and its surrounding nerves. When in motion, this concho will rub on the TMJ and or its surrounding nerves, creating discomfort and an increased possibility of headaches.
Photo Credit: Vanessa Hartley
Imperfect Example #5
This is * almost * perfect, with a browband long enough to allow the crownpiece to lay completely behind the ears, and cheekpiece and noseband buckles low enough to not bother the eyes, TMJ, or surrounding nerves. However, when equipped with a flash, a caveson rests too low on this horse’s nasal bone. Additionally, the cheekpiece is fixed a little too tight, causing a lack of a full release in oral pressure. This also takes away the horse’s ability to carry the bit on its own.
EXAMPLES OF PERFECT FIT
Below are examples of perfectly fitting bridles, what makes them an perfect fit, and optional ways to further improve their fit! I highly recommend looking at the lack of tension on each horses face, and comparing them to the horses in the ‘imperfect fit’ section.
Perfect Example #1
The browband is long the exact length needed to prevent the headstall from sliding backward onto the neck without causing the crownpiece to sit on the base of the ears. The cheekpiece is low enough to not bother the TMJ, surrounding nerves, or the eye. The mouthpiece is slightly wider to allow relief for the bars, and is paired with a bit hobble to further stabilize the bit.
A possible way of improving the fit of this bridle is loosening the throatlatch by just one hole.
Photo Credit: Mary Elizabeth Johnson
Perfect Example #2
The crownpiece sits behind the base of the ears, the cheekpiece buckle is low enough to not bother the TMJ, surrounding nerves, or the eye, the curb strap is attached to the purchase and the cheekpieces are just loose enough for the horse to carry the bit on its own.
This is a perfect fit.
Photo Credit: Mary Elizabeth Johnson
Perfect Example #4:
The browband is long enough to allow the crownpiece to rest just behind the base of the ears, the cheekpiece buckles are low enough to not bother the TMJ, surround nerves, or the eye, and the cheekpiece is almost loose enough to allow the horse the freedom to carry the bit in the exact spot it prefers to.
Optional ways to improve the fit of this bridle are to tighten the throatlatch by 1-2 holes, loosening the cheekpiece by 1 hole, and adding a bit hobble to further stabilize the bit.
Photo Credit: Emaleigh Merideth
Perfect Fit #5
The browband is long enough to allow the crownpiece to sit behind the base of the ears, accompanied by a perfectly snug-but-not-too-snug throatlatch, cheekpiece and noseband buckles that are low enough to not bother the TMJ, surrounding nerves or the eye. The noseband is fitted directly on the base of the nasal bone, and the cheekpiece is adjusted low enough to allow the horse to carry the bit wherever they please.
The mouthpiece appears to be too wide for the horse, which is being corrected by tightening the bridle’s cheekpiece. This is a great solution, however, it would be beneficial to invest in a bit with a narrower mouthpiece.
Perfect Example #6
The figure-8 noseband suits this horse a lot better than the flash caveson shown in the ‘imperfect fit’ section. The noseband is able to sit on the base of the nasal bone, the crownpiece and throatlatch are long enough to keep the crownpiece in the correct spot behind the base of the ears without being overly tight, and neither the cheekpiece or noseband buckles rest near the TMJ or surrounding areas.
While the browband is certainly long enough for this horse, a more-curved browband would allow it to rest more flat on the head. Additionally, loosening the cheekpieces by 1-2 holes would allow the bit to sit loose enough to let the horse carry the bit on its own without the constant pressure.
Perfect Example #7
This bridle is fitted perfectly for this horse, with a browband just long enough to keep the crownpiece in place, a throatlatch that is adjusted tight enough to not slide past the cheekbone if the horse attempted to rub the bridle off, and a snug-but-not-too-snug crank caveson. The removable flash compliments the anatomy of the horse, and the bit is the perfect width for a non-comfort mouthpiece.
Perfect Example #8
This is my favorite example of a correctly fitted double bridle, I wish it were mine! The browband is loosely hugging the forehead while the throatlatch is perfectly snug, making it impossible for this bridle to side backward or slip off. The cheekpiece buckles are low enough that bothering the TMJ, surrounding nerves, or the eyes are out of the question, the the bits hand low enough that the horse is carrying both bits in its mouth without the cheekpieces needing to be over-tightened. The crank noseband is loose enough to allow the horse to communicate any problems with the rider without being able to completely evade bit cues. There isn’t a * drop * of tension in the face or neck.
Photo Credit: Henry James Saddlery Facebook, photo Team Haylor
FINISHING TOUCHES
This concludes ‘How to fit your bit & bridle,’ thank you for reading and I hope you’ve learned something new! Please feel free to reach out with any specific topics you’d like me to cover. I love receiving questions, comments, and other feedback! Always happy to have a conversation
Thank you so much to Agador’s once again, and Henry James Saddlery for allowing me to use photos of their products! Thank you to Shelby James, Lisa Holloway, Mary Elizabeth Johnson, and Emaleigh Merideth for sending me photos that allow me to better-explain and share what I know with others.
